At tailoring is very important to take your measurements, in fact the result of tailoring depends on how accurately and correctly you remove measurements. Measurements measuring tape is removed, No pulling or bending the tape, client at this time must stand still, without straining or changing normal posture.
Although many models of clothes, especially the male, and some blouses and sundresses are net approach or different straps are adjusted, lacing and other tricks, but the correct measure parameters can make clothing, that sits on your figure, as “native”.
Basic standards is:
Bosom, waist-to-hip, back length to waist, from the waist to the bottom of the intended product (if this skirt, dress or gown) and arm length.
For women also desirable measurements: back width, chest width and height of the breast.
Where it is supposed to measurements: Neck circumference, Wrist circumference, measurement of length sleeves.
In contrast to the industrial production of clothing, which uses standard pattern in several sizes, individual tailoring should be individualized, so it is necessary to take into account all the features of a human figure, for who makes the clothes.
In order, to make the pattern, and then sew the clothes given to individual, necessary to make a number of measurements.
These measurements are called yardstick, and the measurement – taking measurements.
How to take your measurements
In order, to properly remove the individual measures and build a pattern to observe a number of rules:
- measurements are made of dense measuring tape, tape measurement can not loosen or tighten;
- that, with whom to take measurements, should stand up straight, without stress, maintaining habitual posture, with hands down; stance – heels together, socks deployed;
- it is advisable to take measurements for garment, extra clothing to not distort readings;
- Double dimensional figures to determine the right side;
-measurement error does not exceed 0,5 cm.
Taking measurements begin by marking indicative of points and lines in the figure.
Waistline record fine braid, which is positioned horizontally when sewing shoulder products (Dresses, blouses, jackets) and so, as she lies on a figure, when sewing belt products (Skirts, pants).
Position of the shoulder seam (point base of the neck and shoulder – at the edge of the shoulder) mark with chalk or pencil, center of the chest – pin.
To fix the armhole depth line (front and rear corner of the axilla) and the length of side arm enclose a wide strip of heavy paper 2-3 cm, length 30 cm, folded in half.
Some sites do not have the figures of the transition boundary in these cases are taken additional measurements, that control the basic.
Since the drawings are building half figures (when cutting pattern is applied to the fabric folded in half), girth measurements (except grasp hands) and the width at half the rate recorded.
Poluobhvatov figures rounded to whole numbers, performance and half the width of the back transfer is not rounded. For example, chest is 105 cm, back width 37 cm; write to 52 (or 53) and 18,5 respectively. The measurements are recorded in full length.
In the brief description of conditional yardsticks first capital letter (or two letters) is the name of the measurement:
In – height, D – depth, PO poluobhvat etc. e; lowercase letters, and in some cases also the numbers, indicate the measurement location.
For example, DST-length at the back waist. Or – grasp hands, POg1 – poluobhvat breasts first.
In the future,, in the data for the construction drawings of products will give only a brief account yardsticks, without decryption.
To construct a pattern, the following measurements:
2. Poluobhvat breasts first (POg1).
Measuring tape is applied to the blades horizontally, tape for the top of the rear corners of the axillary, is on the armpits, front passes over the breast and closes on the right side of the chest.
3. Poluobhvat second breast (POg2).
This measurement determines the size of the product in the construction drawing. After the previous measurement tape on the back do not shift, front of it passes through the exposed points of the breast and is closed on the right side of the chest.
For. Poluobhvat chest third (POg3).
In industry and trade network of the size of the product is determined by the yardstick. Measuring tape is applied horizontally around the body through the exposed points of the breast, and close on the right side of the chest.
4. Poluobhvat waist (Sweat).
Measuring tape nakladypayut horizontally around the body through the waist.
When sewing some items one needs a full measure waist circumference (From).
5. Poluobhvat thighs (ПОб).
Measuring tape is applied to the point of buttock, It runs horizontally around the body, on the ledge in front abdomen and closes on the right side of the body. Measurement is needed and full Hips (About).
6. Shoulder length (DPL).
Arm length is measured from the middle point of the shoulder slope base of the neck to the shoulder point.
7. Sleeve (Etc.).
Measuring tape is applied from the end of the shoulder seam through the protruding elbow point in the direction of the little finger to the wrist. Arm at the elbow with a slightly bent. Simultaneously record (record) the length of the sleeves to the elbow.
8. Circumference of hand (Or).
Girth measured at the hands freely lowered hand. Measuring tape is applied horizontally. The upper edge of the rear corner ribbon for armpit, Tape closed on the outer surface of the hand. To further narrow sleeves removed girth arm at the elbow and at the wrist, Brush or girth (Ca).
9. Half the width of the back (ECP).
Measuring tape is applied horizontally to the convexity of blades to the rear corners of the axillary.
10. Half the width of the shoulders (PShp).
Measured between the points of the shoulder from behind. Tape is a germ. This measurement – control.
11. Back length to waist (DST).
Measuring tape is applied to the rear of the waist to the neck at the base point of the shoulder, tape is parallel to the spine through the convex blades.
12. The depth of the armhole (Mp).
Armhole depth measured from the point at the base of the neck shoulder seam to the top of the strips of construction paper, planted under his arm. Measuring tape is parallel to pozvopochniku convex blades. End of the paper strip is removed to the blades, placing it horizontally.
13. The length of the sides (Db).
The length is measured on the back side of the top of the paper strip to the waist line, vertical.
14. Shoulder height back (UPU).
Shoulder height back determined position of the shoulder point to the waist line. Measurements performed in two directions: the shortest distance from the intersection of the waist to the spine through the shoulder blade to the point (oblique shoulder height) and from the waist to shoulder level parallel to the spine (straight shoulder height). Mercury record shot: in the numerator – value skew measurement, in the denominator – direct.
15. Half the width of the breast first (PShg1).
Measuring tape is applied over the base of the breast between verticals, conceptually drawing on the front corners of armpits up. This measurement control.
16. Second half of the width of the chest (PShg2).
Measuring tape is on the exposed point of the bust to the verticals, mentally spent from the front corners of armpits down.
16and. Half the width of the bust (PShb).
Measuring tape is applied between the front corners of the axillary a prominent point of the bust.
The last two measurements recorded UNITED: the first number – PShg2, second – PShb.
17. Center bust (CB).
Centre bust is measured between the centers of the breast.
18. Breast height (Br).
Measuring tape is applied to the base point of the shoulder to the neck at point projecting breast.
19. Front length to waist (Dpt).
Mercury waist lenght shoot directly for a bushel of Br. Measuring tape, applied to the base of the neck at the shoulder, passes through an exposed point of the breast parallel to the band mid front on the waist line.
20. Length mid front (CPD).
The length is measured from the mid front jugular trough to lace on the waist. With a large bust to its exposed points apply a thin line of – tape passes through it. To measure the depth of the control points of the neck at the base of neck to the top of the shoulder line, position of the horizontal depressions in the jugular.
This measurement in the amount of the neck with depth should make yardstick lengths in front waist, and recorded her two numbers: first- deep throat, second – actually chipboard.
21. Shoulder height transfer (Runway).
Measuring the height of the shoulder before producing two positions: from the point of the shoulder to the center of the bust and from the same point (tape after the first measurement with her not shift) parallel to the front to the middle of the webbing on the waist line. Both values are recorded.
22. Product Length (Dee).
To remove the product length measurements of tape is applied to the 7th cervical vertebra, Tape goes down through the line of the waist to the desired point.
23. Skirt length (Du).
Skirt length is measured from the waist to the side.
24. The length of the transmission line in the middle of the waist to the floor (DPP).
25. Length on the side of the waist to the floor (DSB).
26. Length from waist to floor behind (CPD).
Length from waist to floor behind the measured line, continues the line of the spine.
Length skirts middle transmission (Dp). The value is the difference between the DPP and the yardstick of the length from the bottom of the skirt to the floor.
Skirt length behind (DS). The difference between the CPD and the yardstick of the length from the bottom of the skirt to the floor.
27. Long pants, knee-length pants (DBR, Dbrk).
Measure from the waist to the side to the desired point.
28. Girth of hips (about. hip).
Measuring tape horizontally wraps hip, touching the top of the crease podyagodichnoy, closes on its outer side.
29. Seat height (Sun).
To remove the seat height measurements man, with whose figures are measures taken, should sit on a chair with a flat hard seat. Measured on the side of the waist to the chair seat.
30. Length seat (DS).
Measuring tape runs from the waist front through the crotch to the waist from behind.
31. Step length (Aw).
Step length is measured on the inside of the thigh from the crotch to the floor with your feet slightly apart.
32. Circumference of knee (Ca).
Girth measured at the knee flexed at 90 ° leg at the knee point.
33. Height podyagodichnoy folds (Vpya).
Podyagodichnoy height is measured from the middle of the crease podyagodichnoy folds vertically to the floor.
Before you do a drawing pattern, need to check, properly take your measurements.
Poluobhvat breasts should be equal to the sum of the width of the back half of the yardsticks, armhole width and half-width transmission (POg2 = ECP + PDS + PShp).
Half the width of the back to take your measurements taken.
The width of the armhole is calculated by the criterion of girth hands (PDS = Op / 3 + 0,5 cm).
Half the width of transmission is equal to half the width of the second breast (PShp = PShg2) or half the width of approximately minus bust 2 cm (PShp = PShb – 2 cm).
If there is an inaccuracy more 1 cm, measurements to check again.
Back length to the waist should be equal to the sum of yardsticks armhole depth and length of the sides (DST = HLOOKUP + Db).
When sewing hats need measurement of head circumference (Oг).